Final Photos.

My Final Piece.

For my final piece I want to create a photograph using all the techniques that I have talked about throughout this blog. To do this I need to take a series of photos that fits each criteria of editing but also a series of pictures that fit together and can act as one large piece of work.

- Long Exposure
- Reflections
- Fisheye
- Multiple Exposure
- Panoramic
- Colour Adjustment
- Levels
- Focus.

Fisheye Photography

In photography, a fisheye lens is a wide-angle lens that takes in an extremely wide, hemispherical image. Originally developed for use inmeteorology  to study cloud formation and called "whole-sky lenses", fisheye lenses quickly became popular in general photography for their unique, distorted appearance. They are often used by photographers shooting broad landscapes to suggest the curve of the Earth. Hemispherical photography is used for various scientific purposes to study plant canopy geometry and to calculate near-ground solar radiation.

The focal lengths of fisheye lenses depend on the film format. For the popular 35 mm film format, typical focal lengths of fisheye lenses are between 8 mm and 10 mm for circular images, and 15–16 mm for full-frame images. For digital cameras using smaller electronic imagers such as 1/4" and 1/3" format CCD or CMOS sensors, the focal length of "miniature" fisheye lenses can be as short as 1 to 2mm.

All the ultra-wide angle lenses suffer from some amount of barrel distortion. While this can easily be corrected for moderately wide angles of view, rectilinear ultra-wide angle lenses with angles of view greater than 90 degrees are difficult to design. Fisheye lenses achieve extremely wide angles of view by forgoing a rectilinear image, opting instead for a special mapping (for example: equisolid angle), which gives images a characteristic convex appearance. A panorama by rotating lens or stitching images (cylindrical perspective) is not a fisheye photo.

some examples of this style that i have found on the internet.

My Fisheye photo's, taken using a Nikon D90 with a fisheye lens.

Multiple Exposure.

Multiple exposure is a technique most at home with in film photography, on a film camera it is done by taking a initial photo, then winding the film back to expose the frame again. To recreate this effect with digital photography, you have to use software like photoshop.

These are my photos taken with a film camera  with the original technique.

This is how i have recreated using new media.

the layers panel on photoshop is the main part in this technique, I have 3 photos that have only slight changes in them these are then cut up to fit with the larger image.

Panoramic Photography. (the cheap way)

The basic concept of a Panorama is that the recorded image encompasses more of a scene than you could see at the time without having to turn your head from one side to another. In fact, to obtain a true panoramic view, the camera's lens must swing it's view from one side to the other.

Cropping.

The easiest way to get a panoramic photo is too cheat, just use a wide angle lens, and crop the top and bottom of the photo, this changes the aspect ratio which means that the width is much greater than the hight

Another big part of digital photography is the other options that you have.  Some Mobile phones have brilliant cameras that can both take pictures and take video.

My Samsung Tocco Lite has a massive 3.2 megapixel camera. 

This phone has a Panoramic Feature which gives you 6 photos to take and also guides you to where the next photo is to be taken.

it gives results like this:

Colour Adjustment.

One of the most liberating effects of digital photography is its total control over colour: you can control effects from the most subtle tints to the most outrageous colour combinations.

Curves

Manipulating curves, either all at once or as separate channels, is a potent way to make radical changes on and tone. For best results, work in 16-bit colour, as steep curve shapes demand the highest quality and quantity of image data.

Hue/Saturation

This control globally adjusts hues in the image, as well as the colour saturation and, less usefully, the brightness. You may also select narrow ranges of colours to change, thus altering the overall colour balance. Beware of making colours over saturated, as they may not print out.

Replace Colour

This replaces Hue, within a "fuzziness" setting or wave-band, with another.

Photo Levels - Using Photoshop.

The levels control shows a representation, in the form of a histogram, of the distribution of tone values of an image. Levels offers several powerful options for changing global tone distribution. The easiest thing to do is to click on the auto level button. This, however, works effectively in very few cases. What it does is take the darkest pixel to maximum black and the brightest pixel to maximum white, and spreads everything else evenly between them. This however, may change the overall density of the image. Another control that may be available is Output Level. This sets the maximum black or white points that can be produced by, say, a printer. Generally, by setting the white point to at least 5 less than the maximum (in other words, to about 250)  you prevent the highlight areas in your output image appearing totally blank. Setting the black point to at least 5 more than the minimum (in other words, to about 5) you will help to avoid the shadow areas looking overly heavy in your output image.